A Journey Across Australia’s Vast Outback Wilderness

As we left Fowlers Bay behind it was finally time to head into the desert, the real one, the Nullarbor. This legendary drive was once an experience of a lifetime where life itself was at risk for the person willing to embark in such a journey. Nowadays it has become a little more of a tourist attraction and an essential link for the West of Australia. This 1256 km long road is crossing one of the wildest desert of Australia.

The name come from the latin “no tree” which is technically true as only small bush can grow and survive out there. The desolated land is cut straight in the middle by an endless road that disappear in heat waves in the horizon. Driving through this land is exciting and fascinating, the road suddenly get slightly wider and some painting appear on the ground, no worries this is just an emergency landing spot for planes..

Our first stop was the Nullarbor Roadhouse, a legendary watering hole located about 140 kilometers from Fowlers Bay. The roadhouse stands as a testament to the resilience of those who have traversed the Nullarbor for generations. We refueled our vehicles and took the mandatory insta photos next to the road signs before continuing our journey.

From the Nullarbor Roadhouse, we made our way to the Bunda Cliffs, a breathtaking natural wonder. The cliffs, stretching for over 100 kilometers along the coastline, rise over 60 meters above the Southern Ocean, creating a dramatic panorama. We stood at the edge of the cliffs, mesmerized by the power of the ocean and the vastness of the landscape.

As we continued westward, we crossed the border. Crossing into Western Australia is a relatively straightforward process, but there are a few rules to keep in mind. It is important to declare any fresh fruit or vegetables and to ensure your vehicle is free of biosecurity risks. We already had the case crossing the South Australian border a year back and fines can be pretty heavy if you’re willingly trying to hide any seed, vegies or honey.

After the border crossing, we found a secluded campsite about 100 kilometers from Eucla, a small town on the Nullarbor Plain. If you ever looking for stop to grab a bit and refuel this is definitely a good option as the border station is fairly expensive. We kept driving towards our first option, a free campsite on top of a small mount running along the Eyre Highway but after a good look around we couldn’t find any spot without a rocky and very uneven ground plus no much wind protection on top of a hill.

We kept driving a bit and after a slight turn to the left passed the small mountain chain found a small dirt road that lead into the bush. The campsite was nestled among old abandoned cars and a few trees that provided welcome shade from the wind. We set up our tents, cooked a meal over a campfire, and enjoyed the tranquility of the outback with a sky full of stars. This is one of theses place where you truly feel disconnected from everything, just contemplating the milky way and listening to the wind over the desert.

The next morning, we woke up refreshed and ready to continue our journey. We hopped back into our Suzuki Jimnys after a quick breakky and set off on the Eyre Highway, passing through the vast, empty landscape of the Nullarbor. The scenery was mesmerizing, with rolling hills, occasional trees, and endless skies. We didn’t had much luck at spotting a camel during our drive but we definitely saw a fair few emus and eagles along our journey.

The wind was pushing us from the south-easterlies, giving us a tailwind that helped us make good progress. We cruised along at our maximum cruising speed of 90 kilometers per hour, enjoying the open road and the feeling of adventure. As we were driving through Kalgoorlie we got some strong outback mining town vibes, not much to see here on a Sunday arvo ! We still had a few hours before sundown so we took our chance and drove straight down to Esperance.

We arrived in Esperance, a coastal town in Western Australia, just in time for dinner. We were surprised at how quickly we had made the journey, considering the distance and our relatively slow speed. We attributed our quick pace to the tailwind and the lack of distractions along the way.

We were also a little surprised by the price of an un-powered campsite on this side of the country, nearly double the price ! But it comes with the amazing coastal views and the most pristine beach you will ever lay your eyes on, so fair enough.

Crossing the Nullarbor had been an unforgettable experience. We had witnessed the vastness and beauty of the Australian outback, tested our endurance, and created memories that would last a lifetime. As we enjoyed our meal in Esperance, we felt a sense of accomplishment and a renewed appreciation for the wonders of Australia. We made it , we crossed the Nullarbor with two jimnys and a couple of tents, an adventure every one should try if they are travelling around Australia.

Forever travelling, Chris & Claire.

Things to do when crossing the Nullarbor:

• Bunda Cliffs: Stand at the edge of the awe-inspiring Bunda Cliffs, where the rugged coastline plunges over 60 meters into the Southern Ocean. Witness the power of nature and the beauty of the untamed landscape, and marvel at the panoramic views of the vast ocean.
• Nullarbor Roadhouse: Visit the legendary Nullarbor Roadhouse, a beacon of hospitality amidst the desolate expanse of the Nullarbor. Enjoy a hearty meal, refuel your vehicle, and soak in the atmosphere of this iconic landmark that has served travelers for generations.
• Border Village: Mark your passage from South Australia into Western Australia at Border Village, a small settlement on the Nullarbor Plain. Take a moment to appreciate the significance of crossing state borders and the vastness of the Australian landscape. Also don’t forget your
• Fowlers Bay: Discover the tranquil seaside charm of Fowlers Bay, a coastal town nestled along the Eyre Peninsula. Explore the windswept dunes and pristine beaches, delve into the town’s whaling history, and enjoy the serenity of this hidden gem. Definitely